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Apostolos Thymiopoulos’ Atma range (meaning ‘soul’) uses grapes from the younger vines. Atma White is made from 25% of tropical Malagousia blended with Xinomavro from biodynamic vineyards, a red grape unusually vinified as a white wine here. It’s mineral and floral with a savoury, saline tang and vibrant acidity. Great mouthfeel.